#MAC VALVE FOR BOOST CONTROL UPGRADE#
My setup is a B16a JDM motor, Greddy timing belt, Ferrea Valve Springs(turbo grade composite) all the retainers in titanium, new replacement stock valves, and stock brass valve guides replaced(machine work necessary), garrett GT3076R dual ball bearing turbo, running max of 10Psi, ARP head studs Torqued to 82ft-lbs with moly lube(didn't retorque after engine warmed up and they are brand new not reused), Cometic head gasket 0.030" thick(stock thickness) completely stock bottom end, stock distributor and distributor coil(will upgrade in the near future), 850cc injectors(fiveo not the best brand for idle but wide open throttle are fine) will probably upgrade to ID or FIC injectors, later. By all means this is not perfect, just estimations from real world results i found that the lower hz on my solenoid worked great and didn't sputter, I started at 15hz but ended up lowering it even still. but from what I've read you want to keep the duty % higher as it's more precise when lowering duty% so try this insteadġ3hz 30% duty = 4.1psi (default wastegate spring strength)
Set base var freq between 10-20hz for low boost(10psi) set beetween 20-31hz for higher boost(10-20psi)ġ0hz 30% duty = 2psi (in my application) Here is my understanding of it and their relationship (apparently from what I've been reading every solenoid is different so you'll need to find what makes it tick with the test output settings and listening to it tick at a medium pace and then go up from there) 5 seconds) tick you get the idea, then increase the duty cycle, until you hear it go tick (delay 0.4 seconds) tick (delay 0.4 seconds) then increase the duty again 1% at a time, now if you get any jumps or pops or lags of the sort with the clicking, i advise increasing the Hz and then decreasing the duty cycles. I'm just trying to understand what boost control setup works best on specific applications like big turbo high hp drag/roll race cars, "mid frame" gt30/gt35 street cars, etc.Ī tuner known as vitviper in the honda community recently started working for motec but originally worked with hondata to test 4 port solenoids and has made over 900 whp on k20's and f20c's using 4 port solenoids.Hello all, I know the threads old but I found it looking for answers, I liked a previous post about setting the variable frequency to 31-34hz and then messing with the duty cycle after, this really helped me figure out that the minimum hondata will save the hz setting is 10hz, also the test output setting within hondatas online(Dropdown)->test outputs(setting) was helpful after I had already sorted out MY frequency range and duty range on the road, if you park the car don't turn it on and test the outputs and set the variable frequency hz to about 10 (bare minimum, and the duty cycles anywhere between about 30-50% to start off with you will here the solenoid ticking, in a pulsing manner, if it sounds like it's going like a bat out of hell the frequency should be lowered(if it was set between 31-78Hz), if the frequency is at the lowest setting(10Hz) reduce the duty cycles, until you hear the solenoid going about in a lazy manner like a tick (wait. Phillip finally ran a 9 second pass with boost at 11psi in 1st, 24psi in 2nd and 45psi in 3rd and 4th gear In an interview, Myles says right now no matter what he does his boost creeps to 28psi and he has 6.5psi wastegate springs.
This is the first time I've seen a dual solenoid setup preferred over a 4 port. Why would someone opt for one or the other? Myles from English racing and Phillip are both making big power (800+hp) and use a b18c. The past couple of days I've been in a discussion with my friend Phillip regarding 4 port boost solenoid vs dual 3 port solenoids to control boost with single and twin wastegate setups.
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